Bike and Brew: Grey Sail Brewing and Cottrell Brewing Company

For some time after starting this Bike and Brew series in 2016, I wondered if the expansion of breweries in Connecticut was going too fast for me to keep up. Six new breweries have opened in southeastern Connecticut since then, and becoming a father in the interim naturally limited my ability to zip out on day trips to enjoy a leisurely flight or pint.

Breweries have been sprouting up like mushrooms in Connecticut, with the total count currently hovering around 100. But the growth has slowed considerably, with only a handful of new enterprises in a serious state of development and a few places even shutting their doors. In the southeastern part of the state, it doesn't seem like any new breweries are on the horizon and it's giving me a chance to catch up.

It also means going farther afield, as I've tended to focus more on nearby locations. So when I finally had a chance for an outing in late September, Grey Sail Brewing and Cottrell Brewing Company were the most feasible options. It meant venturing into Rhode Island, this time without the help of a ferry, hoping that I wasn't too out of shape and that my new sealant-filled back tire would fight off any potential flats.

That once again means crossing the hated Gold Star Bridge (you can read more about that here, here, and here). I'd forgotten just how narrow it is, especially when the occasional bump-outs for light posts and signs constrict you even more. This gives a glimpse of the New London skyline across the way, hinting at the beautiful view you can see if any when they ever put a bike lane on the other span.

The majority of the suggested route followed Route 184. I encountered some of this road's less than scenic qualities in my journey to Beer'd, but was surprised just how quickly I encountered new ground. The turnoff to head toward Mystic occurs about half a mile after this sign, after which I'd never ridden this road.

It turned out to be pleasantly rolling terrain, allowing me to ride at a pretty good clip. The scenery still wasn't that impressive, with townhouse communities and strip malls popping up with unnerving regularity, but it gradually grew a little more secluded and peaceful as the highway went deeper into the woods.

It was just a brief detour to B.F. Clyde's Cider Mill, so I opted to pop in. The place prides itself on being the oldest steam-powered cider mill in the United States, having first opened in 1881, and you can get an up-close look at the machinery at work during the weekends. There's also a couple of stores on site offering baked goods, jams, hard ciders, wines, and more.

I think everyone in the region makes it a point to stop there at least once during the autumn. Just don't be surprised to see the place mobbed with visitors, and swarmed with yellow jackets until the first hard frost.

Route 184 finally ran straight into this meandering roundabout, which brought me to Route 2 and then a smaller road to get to Westerly. This way includes the White Rock Bridge, an old railroad span which has been preserved as a pedestrian way.

The bridges cross the Pawcatuck River, which marks the line between Connecticut and Rhode Island. One of my co-workers once remarked that Westerly is so closely associated with southeastern Connecticut that it's essentially part of the region, and this crossing drives the point home. There's nothing to show that you've entered a different state.

Oh this is gonna be sweet...

I actually didn't take advantage of this benefit, though it's nice to see it clarified. Westerly has apparently been using the same people as New London to do some downtown upgrades, including large stencils on the street meant to drive home the point that bikes can ride in the center of the lane when parked cars or other hazards make it unsafe to stay to the far right of the road. In New London they caused the city's perpetually sour gadflies to complain that their meaning was unclear, so I guess the signs intend to add another layer of explanation.

Grey Sail Brewing, located in the former Westerly Macaroni Factory, opened in 2011 as the craft brewing scene was starting to pick up steam. Its name refers to the appearance of sailing ships on the nearby ocean, and the beers tend to have a nautical theme to them.

Originally, Grey Sail had a small place at the front of the building to try out their beers. They still use this space to sell merch and fill growlers, but their taproom has since gotten a major upgrade.

This elegant house stands right next to the Grey Sail brewery, seeming a little out of place among the industrial buildings and electrical substations. It was once owned by the people who ran the macaroni factory, and the hand-painted murals are an original feature. The home had been on the market for some time, and in 2016 Grey Sail decided to buy it and turn it into their new taproom.

There's a spacious lawn off to the side, which Grey Sail has turned into a beautiful beer garden. They've done a good job of putting up fencing, plants, and other screening elements to give it a more private feel, and the mild temperatures and first signs of autumn made it a great day to get outside. The space also has a cornhole court, fountain, and brick oven pizza.

With the exception of the Autumn Winds, which I belatedly realized is one of their mainstay fall beers, I chose some beers that were more unique to the taproom. I gave all of them high marks, finding the Little Sister IPA to be smooth and have a nice taste, the Rising Hope Pale Ale to be a little tart but still good, and the Bobbin' For Apples offering of the Wheelhouse series to have an interesting cider/beer mix quality.

There's only a little more than a mile separating Grey Sail and Cottrell, and I spent a good part of that distance walking my bike instead of riding it. Downtown Westerly is a beautiful place to stroll, with lots of pleasant shops and restaurants, and I wasn't in too much of a hurry.

When I first mulled this journey, I was surprised to find that it could potentially include three breweries in extremely close proximity to one another. 84 Aleworks first opened in 2006, moving to this location in downtown Westerly in 2012 and converting to a brew pub in late 2018 in an effort to boost revenues. Unfortunately, this wasn't successful and they closed down the following summer.

I also considered including the Malted Barley, which is renowned in the area for its terrific beer selection, wonderful atmosphere, and delicious pretzels and sandwiches. But I didn't want to get too heavily laden with beer or food, especially on such a long journey after a summer with minimal time on the bike.

You can't ride a bike there, but I still made a quick (walking) stop at Wilcox Park, one of my favorite places in Westerly. Designed by an associate of Frederick Law Olmstead, the man behind Central Park in Manhattan, Wilcox Park is a beautifully landscaped 16-acre site in the middle of town. The walking trails, fountains, and small hills make it a perfect place for a walk on a nice day.

All right, on to the more clumsily designed part of Westerly. The way into town is marked by a large intersection under a railroad bridge with no traffic signals and several nearby side streets, so it often gets pretty badly clogged up. It's not very kind to bicyclists or pedestrians, either, but I managed to get across to Mechanic Street and head on to Cottrell.

Cottrell Brewing Company is one the oldest surviving craft breweries in Connecticut, dating back to the mid-90s beer renaissance that predated the more recent upsurge in small brewing enterprises. The Pawcatuck brewery debuted in 1997 and has maintained a steady presence at local bars and restaurants even as competition has ramped up in recent years.

I also appreciate that the owner, Charlie Buffum is a bit of a history buff. My favorite Cottrell beer, Perry's Revenge, was brewed in recognition of his discovery of the wreck of a ship commanded by Oliver Hazard Perry off nearby Watch Hill.

Cottrell is based in a heavily industrial part of Pawcatuck, and the interior decor is pretty sparse compared to most other breweries these days. That said, they've carved out a nice social area with some tables, games, an amusing mural of the brewery employees, and even a small library for visitors to take or leave books. The bartender greeted me with a free sample of the pilsner Stonington Glory, which was another plus.

I headed back along Route 1, which hugged the shore and offered a beautiful view of some of the seaside coves. I was also briefly lured onto a side street by the sounds of music.

Stone Acres Farm has been in Stonington since 1765. It's still a working farm, and also offers educational events as well as regular outdoor dinners. I apparently stumbled upon one of the latter occasions. Or at least I hope I didn't crash a wedding...

I expected a pretty arduous return ride, but it actually felt much easier than the trip out. I did run out of water and have to stop at a convenience store for some Gatorade, though.

The above shot is of Hodges Square, as seen from the Gold Star Bridge overpass. The bridge was plopped down on top of the neighborhood, though there's been an active effort to revitalize the square. Bike New London, an organization dedicated to bike sharing and providing a place for cyclists to tinker, recently set up shop there.

And then it was a brief ride home to rest my saddle-sore butt and celebrate the longest Bike and Brew to date.

Total mileage: 40.34 miles

Previous Bike and Brew Outings:
Outer Light Brewing Company
Beer'd Brewing Company
Fox Farm Brewery
Shelter Island Craft Brewery and Greenport Harbor Brewing Company
Barley Head Brewery
These Guys Brewing Company and Epicure Brewing
Mohegan Cafe and Brewery
Noble Jay Brewing Company
Tox Brewing Company
Niantic Public House and Brewery