Bike and Brew: Grey Sail Brewing and Cottrell Brewing Company

For some time after starting this Bike and Brew series in 2016, I wondered if the expansion of breweries in Connecticut was going too fast for me to keep up. Six new breweries have opened in southeastern Connecticut since then, and becoming a father in the interim naturally limited my ability to zip out on day trips to enjoy a leisurely flight or pint.

Breweries have been sprouting up like mushrooms in Connecticut, with the total count currently hovering around 100. But the growth has slowed considerably, with only a handful of new enterprises in a serious state of development and a few places even shutting their doors. In the southeastern part of the state, it doesn't seem like any new breweries are on the horizon and it's giving me a chance to catch up.

It also means going farther afield, as I've tended to focus more on nearby locations. So when I finally had a chance for an outing in late September, Grey Sail Brewing and Cottrell Brewing Company were the most feasible options. It meant venturing into Rhode Island, this time without the help of a ferry, hoping that I wasn't too out of shape and that my new sealant-filled back tire would fight off any potential flats.

That once again means crossing the hated Gold Star Bridge (you can read more about that here, here, and here). I'd forgotten just how narrow it is, especially when the occasional bump-outs for light posts and signs constrict you even more. This gives a glimpse of the New London skyline across the way, hinting at the beautiful view you can see if any when they ever put a bike lane on the other span.

The majority of the suggested route followed Route 184. I encountered some of this road's less than scenic qualities in my journey to Beer'd, but was surprised just how quickly I encountered new ground. The turnoff to head toward Mystic occurs about half a mile after this sign, after which I'd never ridden this road.

It turned out to be pleasantly rolling terrain, allowing me to ride at a pretty good clip. The scenery still wasn't that impressive, with townhouse communities and strip malls popping up with unnerving regularity, but it gradually grew a little more secluded and peaceful as the highway went deeper into the woods.

It was just a brief detour to B.F. Clyde's Cider Mill, so I opted to pop in. The place prides itself on being the oldest steam-powered cider mill in the United States, having first opened in 1881, and you can get an up-close look at the machinery at work during the weekends. There's also a couple of stores on site offering baked goods, jams, hard ciders, wines, and more.

I think everyone in the region makes it a point to stop there at least once during the autumn. Just don't be surprised to see the place mobbed with visitors, and swarmed with yellow jackets until the first hard frost.

Route 184 finally ran straight into this meandering roundabout, which brought me to Route 2 and then a smaller road to get to Westerly. This way includes the White Rock Bridge, an old railroad span which has been preserved as a pedestrian way.

The bridges cross the Pawcatuck River, which marks the line between Connecticut and Rhode Island. One of my co-workers once remarked that Westerly is so closely associated with southeastern Connecticut that it's essentially part of the region, and this crossing drives the point home. There's nothing to show that you've entered a different state.

Oh this is gonna be sweet...

I actually didn't take advantage of this benefit, though it's nice to see it clarified. Westerly has apparently been using the same people as New London to do some downtown upgrades, including large stencils on the street meant to drive home the point that bikes can ride in the center of the lane when parked cars or other hazards make it unsafe to stay to the far right of the road. In New London they caused the city's perpetually sour gadflies to complain that their meaning was unclear, so I guess the signs intend to add another layer of explanation.

Grey Sail Brewing, located in the former Westerly Macaroni Factory, opened in 2011 as the craft brewing scene was starting to pick up steam. Its name refers to the appearance of sailing ships on the nearby ocean, and the beers tend to have a nautical theme to them.

Originally, Grey Sail had a small place at the front of the building to try out their beers. They still use this space to sell merch and fill growlers, but their taproom has since gotten a major upgrade.

This elegant house stands right next to the Grey Sail brewery, seeming a little out of place among the industrial buildings and electrical substations. It was once owned by the people who ran the macaroni factory, and the hand-painted murals are an original feature. The home had been on the market for some time, and in 2016 Grey Sail decided to buy it and turn it into their new taproom.

There's a spacious lawn off to the side, which Grey Sail has turned into a beautiful beer garden. They've done a good job of putting up fencing, plants, and other screening elements to give it a more private feel, and the mild temperatures and first signs of autumn made it a great day to get outside. The space also has a cornhole court, fountain, and brick oven pizza.

With the exception of the Autumn Winds, which I belatedly realized is one of their mainstay fall beers, I chose some beers that were more unique to the taproom. I gave all of them high marks, finding the Little Sister IPA to be smooth and have a nice taste, the Rising Hope Pale Ale to be a little tart but still good, and the Bobbin' For Apples offering of the Wheelhouse series to have an interesting cider/beer mix quality.

There's only a little more than a mile separating Grey Sail and Cottrell, and I spent a good part of that distance walking my bike instead of riding it. Downtown Westerly is a beautiful place to stroll, with lots of pleasant shops and restaurants, and I wasn't in too much of a hurry.

When I first mulled this journey, I was surprised to find that it could potentially include three breweries in extremely close proximity to one another. 84 Aleworks first opened in 2006, moving to this location in downtown Westerly in 2012 and converting to a brew pub in late 2018 in an effort to boost revenues. Unfortunately, this wasn't successful and they closed down the following summer.

I also considered including the Malted Barley, which is renowned in the area for its terrific beer selection, wonderful atmosphere, and delicious pretzels and sandwiches. But I didn't want to get too heavily laden with beer or food, especially on such a long journey after a summer with minimal time on the bike.

You can't ride a bike there, but I still made a quick (walking) stop at Wilcox Park, one of my favorite places in Westerly. Designed by an associate of Frederick Law Olmstead, the man behind Central Park in Manhattan, Wilcox Park is a beautifully landscaped 16-acre site in the middle of town. The walking trails, fountains, and small hills make it a perfect place for a walk on a nice day.

All right, on to the more clumsily designed part of Westerly. The way into town is marked by a large intersection under a railroad bridge with no traffic signals and several nearby side streets, so it often gets pretty badly clogged up. It's not very kind to bicyclists or pedestrians, either, but I managed to get across to Mechanic Street and head on to Cottrell.

Cottrell Brewing Company is one the oldest surviving craft breweries in Connecticut, dating back to the mid-90s beer renaissance that predated the more recent upsurge in small brewing enterprises. The Pawcatuck brewery debuted in 1997 and has maintained a steady presence at local bars and restaurants even as competition has ramped up in recent years.

I also appreciate that the owner, Charlie Buffum is a bit of a history buff. My favorite Cottrell beer, Perry's Revenge, was brewed in recognition of his discovery of the wreck of a ship commanded by Oliver Hazard Perry off nearby Watch Hill.

Cottrell is based in a heavily industrial part of Pawcatuck, and the interior decor is pretty sparse compared to most other breweries these days. That said, they've carved out a nice social area with some tables, games, an amusing mural of the brewery employees, and even a small library for visitors to take or leave books. The bartender greeted me with a free sample of the pilsner Stonington Glory, which was another plus.

I headed back along Route 1, which hugged the shore and offered a beautiful view of some of the seaside coves. I was also briefly lured onto a side street by the sounds of music.

Stone Acres Farm has been in Stonington since 1765. It's still a working farm, and also offers educational events as well as regular outdoor dinners. I apparently stumbled upon one of the latter occasions. Or at least I hope I didn't crash a wedding...

I expected a pretty arduous return ride, but it actually felt much easier than the trip out. I did run out of water and have to stop at a convenience store for some Gatorade, though.

The above shot is of Hodges Square, as seen from the Gold Star Bridge overpass. The bridge was plopped down on top of the neighborhood, though there's been an active effort to revitalize the square. Bike New London, an organization dedicated to bike sharing and providing a place for cyclists to tinker, recently set up shop there.

And then it was a brief ride home to rest my saddle-sore butt and celebrate the longest Bike and Brew to date.

Total mileage: 40.34 miles

Previous Bike and Brew Outings:
Outer Light Brewing Company
Beer'd Brewing Company
Fox Farm Brewery
Shelter Island Craft Brewery and Greenport Harbor Brewing Company
Barley Head Brewery
These Guys Brewing Company and Epicure Brewing
Mohegan Cafe and Brewery
Noble Jay Brewing Company
Tox Brewing Company
Niantic Public House and Brewery

Whatever Happened To: The Cast of The Goonies

People around my age have a strong affection for certain pieces of pop culture. It's not just that we associate them with the simpler charms of childhood; movies like Back to the Future and Jurassic Park are genuinely good, TV shows like Dinosaurs work on a completely different level when you watch them as an adult, and music from the 80s and 90s has held up quite well.

The Goonies ranks pretty high among the childhood movies beloved by this generation. It's a fairly straightforward adventure film, combined with a dash of the "scrappy bunch of misfits" trope, as a group of youngsters stumbles across a treasure map that gives them a last-ditch chance to save their neighborhood from developers. It helps that Steven Spielberg came up with the concept, and the story and characters easily remain memorable several years later.

So what happened to the kids of the Goon Docks? Well, it turns out quite a few of them stayed in acting, with several of them easily recognizable today.

Sean Astin (Mikey Walsh)

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The Goonies might be seen as a disorganized group, but Mikey Walsh quickly provides leadership and inspiration during the adventure. In one of the more memorable scenes, he encourages the group to take a risk and keep searching for the treasure instead of returning to safety, declaring, "Goonies never say die!" Although he's a bit meek at first and relies on an inhaler, he's grown considerably braver by the end of the film.

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Sean Astin, now 48, was just a few years into a lengthy acting career when The Goonies came out. Mikey may be considered his breakout role, but he also earned plaudits for playing the title character in 1993's football biopic Rudy as well as Samwise Gamgee in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Recently he has voiced Raphael in the more recent Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles series and Chester in Bunnicula, and played Bob Newby in the second season of Stranger Things.

Josh Brolin (Brandon "Brand" Walsh)

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Mikey's older brother, Brand was somewhat annoyed by the Goonies and their antics, although he was just as outraged by the local country club's efforts to destroy his neighborhood. He reluctantly joins the group on their adventure after first trying to keep them out of trouble. Brand was also shown to have a softer side, comforting Mikey when he got distressed over the impending loss of their home and being a little more nervous around Andy due to his attraction to her.

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The Goonies launched the acting career of Josh Brolin, who has since had a rather prolific career. After focusing primarily on TV early on, including as Wild Bill Hickok in the Western series Young Riders, he began to appear more frequently in film roles. Some of his more notable credits include No Country For Old Men, W., and Milk. Now 51, he's most recently been known for playing the supervillain Thanos in the Avengers franchise.

Jeff Cohen (Lawrence "Chunk" Cohen)

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An overweight and excitable member of the Goonies, Chunk is prone to clumsy mishaps, exaggeration, and making up stories. In his confession to the Fratellis, Chunk admits that he has a fondness for pranks (although he feels guilty about the results of some of them). Though he lacks courage at first, he overcomes his fear of Sloth to befriend him and come to his friends' rescue. Chunk is also known for the "Truffle Shuffle," an embarrassing dance his friends sometimes force him to do.

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Jeff Cohen had a few small roles before The Goonies, including roles on Webster and The Facts of Life, and appeared in a number of TV shows and movies before his acting career ended in 1991. Cohen lost a good deal of weight after hitting puberty and taking up football, though he said his improved health also helped terminate his acting career since he could no longer go after "fat kid" roles. He attended business school at the University of California at Berkeley and earned a law degree from UCLA. Now 45, Cohen is working as an entertainment lawyer at a Beverly Hills law firm he co-founded in 2002.

Corey Feldman (Clarke "Mouth" Devereaux)

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Mouth earns his nickname from being, well, a little mouthy. He is fond of lobbing jokes and insults, many of them aimed at Chunk. His nickname may also have refer at least in part to the fact that he was fluent in Spanish (misusing his bilingual abilities to terrify the Walshes' maid) or the fact that he tends to prattle on. Despite projecting a sense of bravery, Mouth is often spooked or terrified by the things the Goonies encounter along their journey.

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Corey Feldman had been a child actor for a few years prior to The Goonies, landing parts on the TV series The Bad News Bears and the film Gremlins. One year after The Goonies, he played Teddy Duchamp in Stand By Me. He has continued to act into adulthood, though in less prominent roles. Feldman, now 48, has been outspoken on the issue of child sexual abuse, saying he was molested during his early career in Hollywood.

Kerri Green (Andrea "Andy" Carmichael)

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Though she lives in the wealthier Hillside section of town, Andy doesn't look down on those in the Goon Docks. In fact, she has a close friendship with Stef, is attracted in Brand, and elbows fellow Hillside resident Troy in the mouth after he runs Brand off the road. Andy's decision to join the Goonies on their adventure seems to be motivated partly by Mikey's speech and partly by a desire to get close to Brand. Her piano skills also prove useful for disabling one booby trap.

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Although she appeared in a few movies in the mid-80s, including Summer Rental and Lucas, Kerri Green took a break from acting to attend Vassar College. Her acting career briefly resumed in the early 90s but soon became fairly sporadic. She wrote and directed the 1999 film Bellyfruit, and her last credited role was in the 2012 film Complacent. Now 52, she has kept a fairly low profile, though she reportedly lives in Los Angeles with her family and dabbles in screenwriting and other behind the scenes work.

Martha Plimpton (Stef Steinbrenner)

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A friend of Andy, Stef isn't too happy to find herself on the Goonies' expedition and frequently expresses her displeasure. She is particularly annoyed by Mouth and trades barbs with him at several points, although the two develop a grudging respect for each other by the end of the film.

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Martha Plimpton, now 48, continued her acting career with a number of bit parts on TV and in film. More recently, she played the regular character of Virginia Chance in the series Raising Hope and has also appeared in several theatrical productions.

Jonathan Ke Huy Quan (Data Wang)

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An extremely inventive kid, Data carries around several of his devices at any given time. His intelligence and ingenuity come in handy at a few different points during the adventure - including successfully confronting the Fratellis at several points. Data is of Chinese ancestry, speaking heavily accented English; his family is preparing to move to Detroit due to the pending demolition of the Goon Docks, and he is dismayed by the possibility that he'll have to leave his friends behind.

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Coming to the United States with his family after the fall of Saigon, Jonathan Ke Huy Quan started his film career with Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, where he played Indy's sidekick Short Round McFly. Quan's acting career petered out in the early 90s, although his last credited role was in the 2002 film Second Time Around. Although he has kept a low profile online, Quan has worked as a stunt choreographer and can often be seen at sci-fi conventions.

John Matuszak (Sloth Fratelli)

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The deformed youngest brother of the Fratellis, Sloth has been ostracized and kept chained up by the family. He has limited speech, and his appearance and mannerisms terrify Chunk when the two are locked up together. However, Sloth is shown to be good-hearted and he happily helps out the Goonies after Chunk bonds with him. He's perhaps best remembered for the catchphrase "Hey you guuuuyyys!!"

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John Matuszak was a professional football player, but dabbled in acting as well with his first credited role in 1979's North Dallas Forty. Although Sloth was arguably his most memorable role, he made guest appearances on shows such as Cheers, M*A*S*H, and The Dukes of Hazzard. Matsuszak spent most of his football career on the Oakland Raiders, but retired due to persistent back pain after the team won the 1981 Super Bowl. Unfortunately, he also struggled with substance abuse and died in 1989 at the age of 38 after an accidental overdose of the prescription drug propoxyphene.

Anne Ramsey (Mama Fratelli)

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The matriarch of the Fratelli family, Mama Fratelli is the ruthless leader of their small criminal enterprise. She has a rather pronounced violent streak, likely being responsible for the death of at least one FBI agent to come to the Fratelli hideout; among other things, she also tries to shove Chunk's hand into a blender and forces Andy to walk the plank of One-Eyed Willie's ship. Her one display of empathy comes when she tries to calm Sloth down with a lullaby, though he quickly realizes that it's a means to an end.

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Anne Ramsey was active in theater before starting a film career in the 1970s. The Goonies helped win her several roles as gruff, intimidating women, most notably as Momma in 1987's Throw Mama From the Train, which earned her an Oscar nomination for Best Supporting Actress. Unfortunately, Ramsey also suffered from throat cancer and ultimately succumbed to the disease in 1988 at the age of 59.

Robert Davi (Jake Fratelli)

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Jake Fratelli is serving a prison sentence early in the film when he is freed by his family. He is prone to outbursts of Italian singing, as well as arguments with his brother Francis. Jake exhibits some cruelty, such as taunting Sloth, though he also takes a liking to Chunk after he rattles off a list of the worst things he's ever done.

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Jake's propensity for singing hints at Robert Davi's own talents. He actually intended to pursue a career in singing but wound up stumbling into a prolific film career after Frank Sinatra chose him to play Mickey Sinardos in the NBC movie Contract on Cherry Street. Davi, now 68, has been acting ever since with roles in films such as Die Hard, Licence to Kill, and Showgirls. He's also been able to realize his dream of a singing career, frequently giving live performances and releasing a popular album entitled Davi Sings Sinatra.

Joe Pantoliano (Francis Fratelli)

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His appearance might sometimes suggest a gentler personality, but Francis is just as hardened a criminal as his brother and mother. He assists with all of the family's misdeeds, including the interrogation of Chunk and disposing of the body of a dead FBI agent. According to Jake, Francis is Mama Fratelli's favorite child and this leads to frequent squabbles between the brothers.

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Joe Pantoliano has racked up quite a few movie credits over the years, with roles such as Cosmo Renfro in The Fugitive, Cypher in The Matrix, Teddy in Memento, and Ralph Cifaretto in The Sopranos. Pantoliano, now 68, has also been outspoken on mental health issues after being diagnosed with clinical depression; among other things, he's founded a nonprofit organization called No Kidding, Me Too! to help fight stigmas associated with brain disease.